My next project is a shirt for my toddler. The plan is to copy the shape of a bought H&M shirt which is over the head with a half front button placket opening. I’ve never sewn this type of placket before. The H&M placket looks like it is two pieces of fabric and inside you can see a neatened raw edge at the base.
Instead of muddling through I thought I’d look on-line for a tutorial. What I wanted was something similar to a cuff placket on a shirt.
I came across this “Easy Sleeve Placket” on Burdastyle, to be honest I was surprised it was all one pattern piece, I wasn’t expecting that.
If you don’t have a pattern there is a link in stage 2 to a YouTube tutorial to make one.
I changed the pattern slightly, I didn’t want a V shape at the base and I needed the top and bottom placket to be the same width.
Because I wanted this to be a button stand I used lightweight iron-on interfacing for the whole piece.
I was half way through making up my first sample when I realised that the pattern wasn’t working. To accommodate the under placket (the under piece on a shirt cuff placket is usually much narrower than the top) I needed a wider space either side of the centre line. Also the interfacing had stiffened it too much so for the next sample I just put a strip on either side so when finished it would be single layer.
I needed to make the distance from the cutting line on either side wider. It was only 6mm and as the placket was going to be 2cm wide I changed this to 10mm on each side of the centre line.
So the next sample worked out. I had a lot of excess at the base which I just trimmed down before folding the seam allowance under and doing the box stitch. I think I’ll leave the pattern as it is as you can always trim off but can’t add on.
You can see a tiny bit of the under placket poking out at the base so I think to avoid this I’ll widen the top placket just by a few millimetres so it can cover the edge of the under placket.
So for something that I thought would be a bit of a faff turned out to be quite simple.
Boys placket front shirt