Learning to sew a shirt placket

My next project is a shirt for my toddler. The plan is to copy the shape of a bought H&M shirt which is over the head with a half front button placket opening. I’ve never sewn this type of placket before. The H&M placket looks like it is two pieces of fabric and inside you can see a neatened raw edge at the base.

Instead of muddling through I thought I’d look on-line for a tutorial. What I wanted was something similar to a cuff placket on a shirt.
I came across this “Easy Sleeve Placket” on Burdastyle, to be honest I was surprised it was all one pattern piece, I wasn’t expecting that.

If you don’t have a pattern there is a link in stage 2 to a YouTube tutorial to make one.

I changed the pattern slightly, I didn’t want a V shape at the base and I needed the top and bottom placket to be the same width.
Because I wanted this to be a button stand I used lightweight iron-on interfacing for the whole piece.

Pattern piece

Final pattern piece

I was half way through making up my first sample when I realised that the pattern wasn’t working. To accommodate the under placket (the under piece on a shirt cuff placket is usually much narrower than the top) I needed a wider space either side of the centre line. Also the interfacing had stiffened it too much so for the next sample I just put a strip on either side so when finished it would be single layer.

iron on interfacing

iron on interfacing

I needed to make the distance from the cutting line on either side wider. It was only 6mm and as the placket was going to be 2cm wide I changed this to 10mm on each side of the centre line.

gap is now the same width as the finished placket

gap is now the same width as the finished placket

So the next sample worked out. I had a lot of excess at the base which I just trimmed down before folding the seam allowance under and doing the box stitch. I think I’ll leave the pattern as it is as you can always trim off but can’t add on.

finished placket

finished placket

You can see a tiny bit of the under placket poking out at the base so I think to avoid this I’ll widen the top placket just by a few millimetres so it can cover the edge of the under placket.

placket 2

So for something that I thought would be a bit of a faff turned out to be quite simple.

Related post
Boys placket front shirt

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