Burda Style 7136 Denim Shirt Finished!

The denim shirt is now finished after two final very frustrating evenings of sewing.

full shirt hanging (1368 x 1824)

Firstly I had topstitching issues, it took ages to thread the needle and when I finally started sewing threads would get tangled up on the back. I even managed to run out of thread. I was sure I’d have enough to stitch the whole seam. Luckily I had bought 3 reels.

I gave up on the idea of flat felling the underarm and side seams. There was too much fraying going on. In the end I trimmed one side of the seam allowance down, folded over the other side, stitched in the seam allowance and then pressed to one side and topstitched.

Seam allowance trimmed with one side folded over and stitched down

Seam allowance trimmed with one side folded over and stitched down

Seam allowance pressed to one side and topstitched, shown from the inside

Seam allowance pressed to one side and topstitched, shown from the inside

When I was packing up at the end of the evening I realised I had been using a no.11 topstitch needle rather than the 14. I think this was the problem with getting the thread through the eye as when I did use the 14 threading was fine. I was just wasting loads of thread with having to snip off a few centimetres each time it untwisted with a failed attempt of thread and then all the unpicking… with only 30mts on a reel it just seams to disappear.

The second evening of frustrating sewing was due to the button holes. The night before I had added them to the pocket flaps and they were perfect first time. Now the 1 step button hole on my machine would only stitch one side of the button hole. After about 45 minutes and numerous attempts it started working again. But the stitching of every single one was stressful as I was expecting the machine to play up. Also sewing on the 13 buttons seemed to take an age.

Now it is finished I LOVE it. I want to wear it every day. I’m happy with the fabric, the buttons, the topstitching and the fit.

me 1 (1110 x 1700)

I didn’t make any adjustments to the fit except that I had to trim the length of the sleeve down by 2.5cm and I reduced the depth of the cuff by 1cm. Because my bottom edge of the sleeve was now wider I had to increase the size of the pleats so that wasn’t too big for the cuff. Also I lost 2.5cm in the length of the cuff placket and with a narrower cuff only used 1 button rather than 2. So if I make this pattern again I’ll take the length out of the sleeve pattern before I cut the fabric out.

I saw this shirt below in the Sunday Times Style magazine, ( I scanned it and now I can’t even read who it is by….) Checked / Plaid shirts are everywhere at the moment, I do have Boden one which after 3 years and a lot of wear is beginning to go at the seams so I think this will be a new year project using this pattern.

plaid shirt

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9 thoughts on “Burda Style 7136 Denim Shirt Finished!

  1. The finished shirt is just beautiful, you must be very pleased with it! (And I can see why you are already planning another; a nice, soft checked flannel would be lovely!)
    What is it with sewing machines and buttonholes? My machine sews perfectly pretty buttonholes on any old scrap of fabric I choose to practise on, but try to sew one on an actual garment and it throws a right old paddy! It’s almost as if they ‘know’ it’s important.
    As for top stitching, I have not even dared try this yet. Did you use ordinary thread in the bobbin?
    You have made a lovely job of it in spite of your own appraisal – we are always our own strongest critics, eh?

    • Thank you, I am really pleased with ‘the finished article. It was one of those makes when you are thinking, ‘it’s going to look good’ then ‘no, it’s going to look awful…’ I hate sewing button holes as it is never straight forward, Yes, I used ordinary thread in the bobbing. Check out the link in the first post to ‘yes I like that’ 20 tips for topstitching. Once it is mastered it gives a great finish.

  2. It’s lovely! And you’re right – it does have a lot of potential. 🙂 You could have a bit of fun playing with pocket shapes and details.

    I often get to the last 5th of a project and hit a wall because I’m worried it won’t work. Sometimes I have to put it away for a while, and then when I get it out again, it’s not as bad as I remember…

    • Next time I think I’ll bring the shoulder yoke forward a bit more and maybe shape the back yoke.
      When you start a project you have high hopes and which then I find fluctuate during the process. I am now thinking of the half finished trench coat……..

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