Bound buttonholes can give your garments a really professional finish and are quite easy to get the hang of. I’m putting two into the waistband of a denim skirt.
When I first tried making a bound buttonhole I found the patch method worked best for me. I first tried these out when I started the Sewaholic Robson Trench Coat ( I will finish it one day……)
To start with measure your button diameter. I tend to add a couple of millimetres extra.
Apply iron on interfacing over the position of the button hole. Mark the length of your button hole and draw a line 3mm above and 3mm below (depending on the size of your button this can be wider), mark the ends of the button hole so you now have an oblong.
Cut an oblong fabric patch; make sure it is plenty big enough; any excess will get trimmed away at the end.
Sew the patch on, place it underneath with right side to right side. Use a small stitch starting in the middle of long side, not in a corner. When stitching the short sides count the stitches on the first one and do the same number on the second side to ensure that the width at each end is exactly the same. It’s a good idea to use the hand wheel to take this slowly.
Cut through the centre of the button hole stopping short of the ends and then carefully cut into the corners.
Pull the fabric through and press; you should have a good shaped oblong.
Starting with one side fold up the fabric to half the width of the opening, then do the same with the other side so that the fabric meets in the middle. When you are happy with how it looks give it a press. To keep the fabric folds secure hand stitch in the ditch.
Fold the sides of the button hole back to show the fabric triangle, machine stitch across carefully, slightly pulling the folded fabric underneath.
Cut away the excess fabric of the patch around the button hole.
To finish you also need a matching hole in your facing. Follow the same steps up to pulling the fabric patch through and pressing. Finish by stitching across the triangles as before and if you like, edge stitch around the opening. Finally catch stitch the facing opening to the front buttonhole to keep them together.