Tartan Burdastyle 7136, slimmed down, in progress….

The first make of 2014 is to be a checked shirt based on the Burdastyle 7136 pattern I used for this denim shirt I made last November.

fabric (1426 x 1069)

I bought two pieces of fabric, the brushed cotton tartan from Leon’s fabrics in Cholton for £4.75 per metre and the check from My fabrics online which was 1/2 price at £4.99 per metre. The pattern asks for 1.5mts of fabric but I was needing to match the pattern and cut some pieces on the cross/ bias I bought 2mts of each. I’ve chosen to make up the tartan first. I’ve been in two minds about this, I either like it or I think it looks like a picnic blanket.

I wanted to make a closer fitting shirt than the denim shirt so I slimmed the pattern down. I vertically took out 0.6cm from the centre back / front and 0.75 from half way along the shoulder seam. So on the whole shirt circumference I took out 5.4cm. To do this I drew a vertical line through the pattern piece and continued onto the paper for the new pattern piece. When tracing around the piece I stopped when I reached the point and moved the pattern the required amount and continued tracing. I had to make the same adjustments to the collar and collar stand pattern pieces.

a line drawn though the pattern piece and onto the paper underneath

a line drawn though the pattern piece and onto the paper underneath

move the original pattern piece the required amount and continue tracing

move the original pattern piece the required amount and continue tracing

I slimmed the waist down by 1cm at the side seams. For the sleeve I took out the 3cm extra length that I needed to cut off when I made the denim shirt and slimmed down the width by 1.5cm on each side. I made up a toile and found that I could take out more from the sleeve width but needed to add slightly to the hip width. Also because I wanted to flat fell the underarm and side seam I increased the seam allowance to 2cm to allow for this.

Cutting the fabric – matching checks
I wanted to be spot on with matching the checks. So each piece was cut on a single layer. I cut the first front piece I then used this as the pattern for the second piece, making sure it was a mirror image and matching up the pattern. When cutting out pieces that are usually cut on the fold like the yoke and back, I positioned then cut one half then repositioned the pattern and cut the other half.

cutting out pieces normally cut on the fold, position and cut around the first half

cutting out pieces normally cut on the fold, position and cut around the first half

after cutting first half reposition the pattern piece and cut the second half

after cutting first half reposition the pattern piece and cut the second half

I cut the pockets, pocket flaps, cuffs, yoke and right front placket on the bias / cross. To make sure the pocket flaps matched the patch pockets I made up the flaps first then positioned them on the fabric before cutting out the patches. I spent an unnecessary amount of time thinking about the best way to do this and it seemed to work out ok.

made up pocket flap positioned on fabric before cutting the patch

made up pocket flap positioned on fabric before cutting the patch

Positioning the pocket pattern piece before cutting out

Positioning the pocket pattern piece before cutting out

finished flap with cut out patch

finished flap with cut out patch

Anyway, so far so good…………..

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6 thoughts on “Tartan Burdastyle 7136, slimmed down, in progress….

    • Thanks, I have wondered if I’m being too obsessive about matching! The matching on one of the back darts was about 2mm out and I had to unpick and re-stitch. But think it will be worth the effort.

    • I seem to be more patient with my sewing these days. I’ll unpick if I’m not happy where as in the past I’d just think ‘that’ll do’. So far so good and nearly finished.

    • Thank you, I’m being a bit of a perfectionist with this so it’s been a little bit slow. I’m also using thicker topstitch thread so there’s a lot of stopping to changing the machine needle and thread.

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