Tartan Burdastyle 7136, Finished

front flat(1620 x 2160)

After a bit of painstaking pattern matching the tartan shirt is finished. I slimmed down the Burdastyle 7136 pattern to get a closer fit than this denim shirt and it’s worked out well.
tartan shirt wearing (1034 x 1544)

A real success for me was flat felling the underarm and side seams. I had the foresight to allow 2cm seam allowance otherwise I don’t think it would have worked so well with just 1.5cm. I stitched the seam as normal, right sides together, then after pressing trimmed one side of the seam allowance down. I folded the wider side over and under concealing all the raw edges.  I tacked the seam allowance down making sure all raw edges were enclosed and then top stitched two rows of stitching.

flat felled side seam - right side

flat felled side seam – right side

When I topstitched the underarm and side seams of the denim shirt I couldn’t manage to do it all in one line as the sleeve became too narrow. I tried a different method this time, instead of trying to fit the sleeve round the free arm I started at the hem and when I reached the underarm point I stitched up along the sleeve turning it inside out as I stitched and this way I got to the cuff without having to break off. Not sure that’s a great explanation; the picture may help a little bit.

top stitching the side / underarm seams

top stitching the side / underarm seams

 I shaped the back yoke which wasn’t entirely successful as I wanted a sharp point at the centre back. It didn’t quite work out and instead of a point it is a curve. I don’t think the loose weave of the fabric helped with this. I think next time I’ll go back to a straight yoke.
back hanging (1069 x 1426)

I was a bit unsure of the fabric to start with thinking it was a bit bright and resembled a picnic blanket. But It’s only when you get close up you can see the brighter colours. Also with the inside of the fabric being brushed it is really cosy.

I bought the pearl shank buttons from eBay and I used a red Gutterman topstitching thread, now I’ve mastered the whole topstitching thing (sort of!)

I’ve enjoyed making these two shirts but I find that the first half of the make goes really fast and you think the end is in sight but then the final half seems to take longer than expected and with 13 buttons and buttonholes the last mile is the hardest mile…

I’ve just started cutting out the lilac check fabric for another shirt and I did sigh at the thought of making the pockets and the pattern matching. I feel a bit ‘shirted’ out at the moment so I’ll take it slowly.

 

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13 thoughts on “Tartan Burdastyle 7136, Finished

    • Thank you. I love the texture using a proper topstitching thread gives but it does slow you down a bit with changing the needle and top thread ( I use normal sewing thread in the bobbin).

    • Thanks. With the topstitching once you’ve sorted the tension and have the needle to hand it shouldn’t take too long to swap between that and the regular thread.

    • Thanks, the fit of the original pattern was great for the denimm shirt but with the fabric being lighter I wanted a closer fit. The check shirt I’m working on now was becoming a bit of a chore so I took a few days off. The sleeves are in and now it’s just collar, cuffs, hem and buttons….just….

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