Second (and final) checked Burdastyle 7136

checked shirt - headless (1359 x 1364)

Going straight into another checked shirt after the first one was a bit of a mistake, I found the first half of this slow going and did think about giving up. It’s the same slimmed down Burdastyle 7136 pattern that I used on the tartan shirt and the original pattern (un-slimmed) for this denim shirt.

The fabric was a bit of hard work, it was two layers of quite lightweight loosely woven fabric joined together by a teeny tack in 1″ spaces. This made pattern matching when cutting out more difficult as when cutting the second piece of a pair I’d have the plain reverse facing me.
lilac checked shirt (1620 x 2160)

I faffed around over the chest pockets for a while before deciding on just one and without a flap. I didn’t intend to use a button but when I was stitching the button holes for the front and cuffs the machine was behaving so well I pushed my luck with just one more.

With quite a big check I soon realised I needed to think about where the light stripe was sitting. When I first stitched the back yoke it looked a bit rubbish. So I took another 5mm seam allowance and covered the stripe and it looked much better. The sleeve head opening would be short by 1cm but all was fine and it wasn’t noticeable when I came to sew the sleeves in.

back yoke - first stitching line then re-stitched

back yoke – first stitching line then re-stitched to cover the light stripe

I wasn’t enjoying sewing this shirt at all. When I stitched the pocket on somehow I put it way too low so had to unpick which was really tricky as the fabric has quite a loose weave and the thread was a spot on colour match. You can’t see it on the outside but you can see needle holes on the inner fabric. So I took a few days off from it and decided to take a slowly. From then on things worked out ok. I broke it down into processes and took one at each sitting.
Sleeve plackets, insert sleeves, side seams, cuffs, collar, hem, buttonholes, buttons – finished!

I flat felled the underarm and side seams just as the last shirt which I am really pleased with and again I gave myself a 2cm seam allowance to work with. I nearly didn’t bother because I just wanted to get this done but glad I took the time.

flat felled side seam inside and outside

flat felled side seam inside and outside

The fabric was from My Fabrics which was on half price sale for £5.50 per metre, I now know why it was on sale as I wouldn’t buy it again – looks great when finished but hard work getting there.

My original inspiration was this shirt, and now I’ve sewn three I don’t feel I need to sew one for a very long time.
plaid shirt



10 thoughts on “Second (and final) checked Burdastyle 7136

    • Thanks, it is lovely to wear. During the make I didn’t think I liked it that much. It wasn’t until I was just about to buttonhole that I saw it with fresh eyes!
      Anyway a couple of easy tees for me next.

  1. Helen, as much irritation as it may have caused you, your attention to detail on this shirt (as always) is impressive. Beautiful pattern matching on an obviously difficult check, and lovely seams!

    • Thank you. I’m so glad I bothered to flat fell in the in end. I’m trying to make sure that the clothes I make can stand up to weekly laundering and the wear and tear of everyday life so a decent seam is essential and the flat fell just looks so more secure.

  2. Thanks, I am becoming a bit more of a perfectionist and will choose to unpick rather than ignore!
    Now it’s made the fabric is lovely, the two layers and loose weave were hard work.

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