Maria of Denmark Kirsten Kimono Tee x 2

After sewing the two shirts I felt like I needed something quick and simple to sew.
I made the Maria of Denmark Kimono tee  last year as my first proper attempt of sewing with knits.
The pattern is a free download, you get it sent to your e-mail box when you sign up for Maria’s newsletter.

Before I made the first tee back in October I did a lot of reading up about sewing with knits. There is some great advice in the links attached to the original posts, find it here

red tee (767 x 814)

I have two skirts that don’t get worn at the moment as I don’t have tops which would go with them. I decided to make one red and one black which would sort out this problem. I bought the 100% cotton single jersey fabric from Calico Laine on-line at £5.49 per metre. One thing I love about Calico Laine is that they post out 1st class so if you order by early afternoon you are likely to receive it the next day.

I used the triple stretch stitch on my machine using a ball point needle and neatened the seam allowances with the overlocker. It has made me realise that I really need to get the overlocker serviced as currently it won’t work as a 4 thread. Construction would be so much faster if I could, getting rid of the need to use the triple stitch and sewing and neatening in one go. I spent some time trying to work the problem out. It seems that the tension disc isn’t working. I can’t seem to tighten it which is what it needs.
red tee folded (1204 x 903)

I used clear elastic to stabilise the shoulder seams. I hadn’t had much luck using this before but I feel now I have sort of mastered it. Previously I found the elastic was stretching when I stitched it to the seam resulting in a puckered seam. Now I stitch it on after I have sewn the seam and slightly pull the fabric and this seems to have got over my problem.

For attaching the neck band I followed the pattern advice and cut the band 15% shorter than the total length of the neck opening and this seems to work fine with me.

I made the red tee first and I found that the shoulder seams sit slightly too far back on me and the back  neck line was a bit stretched out and hung down. Before I cut out the black tee I took 1.5cm from the front shoulder and added it to back shoulder pattern and then raised the centre back by 1.5cm lessening the cb dip and curve. I also stay stitched the back neck in hope of preventing any stretching. It’s all seemed to work and the black fits much better at the back neck.

Adjusted pattern. 1.5cm taken off the front shoulder and added to the back shoulder. 1.5cm added to the centre back

Adjusted pattern. 1.5cm taken off the front shoulder and added to the back shoulder. 1.5cm added to the centre back

The body and sleeve hems were finished with the ball point twin needle. You need to be really careful you don’t overstretch the hems when finished or the stitches could snap. The thing I find most time consuming on these tees is securing the thread ends of the twin needle hems. I bring them all through to the back and stitch in and tie off. The red one has been worn this week with a skirt I haven’t worn in ages so job done!

Related post
Sewing with Knits, Maria of Denmark Kimono tee


16 thoughts on “Maria of Denmark Kirsten Kimono Tee x 2

    • I think it’s a really flattering tee. It’s not too tight, the pattern does suggest having a fabric with some lycra content but the 3 I have made have just been 100% cotton single jersey. Also you get coverage of the top of your arms without having to add in sleeves.

  1. That’s a pattern company I hadn’t heard of before! That looks like the perfect tee:) I’ve been making more stretch clothes since I got a new overlocker – using four threads saves alot of time alright. Hopefully a service will sort it out for you. My old overlocker was beyond servicing – after 18yrs it had just worn out!!

    • So far it’s the only tee pattern I’ve used. I came across it whilst looking for a free downloadable tee pattern. I’m going to drop the overlocker in for a service at the beginning of April. Mine must be 23 /24 years old! I bought it in my late teens. Back then it cost £349 which was massive purchase for me at the time. You can buy them for less than that today. Last time I had it serviced the guy told me to keep hold of it as it was made in Japan rather than China. It’s a Singer 14U.

  2. Your tee looks great! I have this printed out, but haven’t gotten around to putting it together and trying it out yet. You sound like a meticulous finisher…I confess that I normally use fray check and don’t bother tying off. I tried tying off a few times, but it was just to tedious for me…especially on something quick and easy like a tee. Instead of tying off, I put a tiny bit of fray check on the inside, trim off any stragglers and call it good. The only caution is that you have to be careful and not apply too much fray check because on some fabrics it dries clear and on others you can still see it. So, applying a tiny bit to the inside only is what I do. Sometimes if you get too big of a drop, it can seep through to the outside layer, so caution is needed. I’ve thought about putting a drop on a Q-tip or something and then applying. There would be more control that way.

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