Self Drafted Soft Pleat Denim Skirt

During Me Made May it became obvious I was missing skirts from my me made wardrobe. I had in mind a silhouette of a knee length full skirt. The fabric is a soft denim that I bought from John Lewis at £16 per metre. The contrast is a quilting weight cotton that I had in my stash.

self draft denim skirt

I drafted a skirt to use the full 150cm width of fabric and managed to get it out of just 70cm of fabric. The waistband is a shaped yoke style and the skirt was pleated on. I added front pockets with a contrast pocket bag – I love making this style of pocket, I find it very satisfying!

top - adding the main fabric to the corners and sewing the front back to the main body, clipping the curves bottom - the pocket bag with French seams, finished pocket from the front

top – adding the main fabric to the corners and sewing the front back to the main body, clipping the curves
bottom – the pocket bag with French seams, finished pocket from the front

The skirt closes up the centre back with an invisible zipper. I bought the zipper for a £1 at the local Fancy Dress shop, it’s recycled as the lady who runs it does alterations. I forget that she also sells haberdashery and it’s an alternative to my usual hang out. I didn’t take the top stitching all the way to the zipper along the top edge as these areas were quite thick. Top stitching + thick seam allowances = dodgy stitches and broken needle, well for me anyway.

top stitching stops before the centre to avoid the thickness of the zip and seams

top stitching stops before the centre to avoid the thickness of the zip and seams

I went for contrast pale orange top stitching thread following all the tips I learnt when making a denim shirt last autumn.
Correct topstitching needle – check!
Get the tension right – check!
Use standard thread in the bobbin – check!

the fullness of the fabric is in two pleats either side of the centre front and centre back

the fullness of the fabric is in two pleats either side of the centre front and centre back

I also used the contrast fabric for the inner waistband, I hand stitched the bottom edge down with small slip stitches.

contrast inner waistband

contrast inner waistband

I stitched it up over 3 evenings this week and wore it to work today (that’s why it’s a bit creased in the photo). My only issue is that the waistband could have been closer fitting. I did make a toile and noticed this at the time but then forgot to do anything about it…doh! I did think about adjusting it before I faced the waistband but I would of had to unpick the top of the side seams and the top stitching before taking the waistband off and it all seemed too much. It’s not a bad fit at all, I’m just being over critical. I love the overall shape and I’m going to adjust the pattern so next time I get it right!

It’s a simple pattern to make from a skirt block, I’ll do a separate post about drafting.

 

 

 

 

 

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10 thoughts on “Self Drafted Soft Pleat Denim Skirt

    • Thanks, I’m wearing again today and have had a few compliments! The pockets are great. On my toile they were too shallow so I amended the pattern and they are just right now.

  1. Very nice Helen. It has a look of the Sewaholic Crescent skirt, which I have in my pattern stash – as yet unmade. I bet it looks good with all sorts of tops too.

    • I think it is going to be a versatile skirt! I’ve enjoyed wearing it the last couple of days. Very quick to make up, I sewed Mon, Tues & Weds evenings and have worn Thursday and Friday.
      I think it is calling out for another Renfrew to be made to go with it!

  2. It’s lovely. 🙂 My wardrobe is desperately lacking in separates too. Theres a bit of a gap between the things I most like making and the things I most like wearing. I’m usually a season behind in terms of the practicalities…

    • You are right about being behind with the seasons. I’ve got a few more items planned for a summer wardrobe but knowing me it will be autumn but the time they are finished.

    • I have a lot more sewing patience now. A few years back I wouldn’t have bothered to draft the pieces for the pocket and just left them out. And taking the time to get the topstitching right has really paid off. I love this skirt, it got worn 3 days in a row until a toddler had a little accident during his afternoon nap on my lap!

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