When I made my first Kitschy Coo Lady Skater dress back in the summer I raved about it. I just loved the styling and the fit. So there had to be long sleeved winter version and it came to me to add the cowl neckline from the Sewaholic Renfrew.
I love this dress just as much, or even more than my summer version.
The fabric is from Plush Addict, a polka dot ponte Roma. £9.50 per metre and I used 2mts for this dress. The fibre content is 75% polyester, 20% viscose and 5% spandex. This is the first time I have used a ponte roma fabric and I really enjoyed sewing with it and no bother to cut out.
To add the Sewaholic cowl you need to adjust the front and back bodice pattern pieces from the lady skater. The Renfrew has longer shoulders fitting closer to the neck and the back neck drop (the scoop of the back neck) is shallower. I placed my lady skater bodice pattern on the fabric and laid the Renfrew bodice on top – I matched the centre front seam and outer shoulder point and you’ll notice that the depth of the scoop neck is the same on each pattern. I chalked in the extra shoulder length and chalked in the sides of the neck scoop and back neck drop as necessary.
I cut the cowl all in one as I did on the Renfrew Cowl neck top, it’s a massive pattern piece and I only just managed to fit it into my fabric layout.
I added an extra inch to the skirt length, which now looking at the photo, I don’t think was necessary but it doesn’t trouble me enough to shorten the skirt.
I used my standard machine for attaching the clear elastic at the shoulders and waistline (I do this with a zig zag stitch and using a Teflon foot have no problems) and also for attaching the skirt pieces to the front and back bodice, using a stretch stitch and ball point needle. I also used it for the zig-zag topstitching around the neck line. All other seams were sewn on the 4 thread overlocker which makes it a really quick job.
I fell out of love with using the twin needle for the hem a while back and have since found other stretch stitches on the machine which do the job just as well or even better. This stitch took an age to sew around the hem but looks good.
This dress is a definite success and I can see it getting lots of wear over the winter.
I’m still going to rave about the Kitschy Coo Lady Skater dress as I think it is such a great pattern.
Lovely, flattering dress. The cowl neck is very elegant and snuggly for winter.
Can I ask a silly question (‘you usually do’ is the retort I sometimes get).
I’m new to sewing and am experimenting with knits. I understand why you stabilise a seam and some sewers use ribbon, tape, vliesofix tape etc – which I think is sewn into the seam as you go. How does the clear elastic work and why use it over other tape items? Is it to leave some stretch in the seam, but only a certain amount?
Thank you.
Hello, thank you for your comment. No question is too silly! When I made my first tee I used narrow tape but then moved on to clear elastic. To start with I found it difficult to apply as it just made the fabric gather up. Then I read a tip to use a Teflon coated foot to reduce drag and a zig zag stitch. Now it works fine with no problems. The elastic stabilises the seam and still allows for some stretch. It is also less bulky than tape or ribbon and being clear goes with all colours. I use the Hemline clear elastic and bought the Teflon foot from Amazon for a few pounds. Hope that helps!
Thank you, Helen. Much appreciated. I’ll do some experimenting.
Very nice! I’m going to have to remember that alternate stitch for hemming!
I had never really looked at the different stretch stitches on my machine until one evening when I was pulling my hair out trying to get the twin needle to look good.
This is fantastic! I can see why you like it so much. It’s so great to have a pattern that you love making and wearing.
It is such a great pattern and so simple to sew up.
Lovely dress Helen!
Thanks! I’m really pleased with it.