Slim Leg Trousers Adapted From the Jeans Pattern

 

Last week I posted on how I altered my Jeans pattern to make a pair of smart trousers. Sewing up without the  yoke and contrast top stitching makes for an easier construction. I still had some challenging moments though.

slim leg trousers

In this photo the leg lengths look slightly different but I promise you that they are the same length.

 

I had sampled the welt pocket complete with pocket bag and it worked out fine but when it came to the real thing I cocked up! For some silly reason I cut the patch of fabric used to make the welts way too small and didn’t realise this until I had sewn them on and cut the pocket opening,  on both back pieces, gah! There was nothing else to do except set to work with the task light and unpicker. Luckily I’d interfaced the opening on the main body piece which gave it stability and finally I stitched the pocket opening closed with a zig-zag  and started again.

unpicking the welts

carefully unpicking the welts…..

 

welt pocket fixing

stitching the opening up like Frankenstein’s forehead. I had to make the welts bigger the second time to cover all the stitching holes.

 

Second time I had much more success but instead of a double welt I opted for a single welt. For making the welts I follow the same method as for a bound buttonhole – when having a double welt but a single welt was just the case of folding it differently. I also checked out the tutorial on the Thread Theory website for help with the pocket bag.

slim leg trousers from back

I chose not to put a button on my welts but next time I think I will do as the opening does pull downwards slightly, this is why you definitely need a self fabric facing inside.

 

I spent a while looking for suitable fabrics online. I was after chino type fabric but with stretch, I couldn’t find exactly what I was after, if anyone knows a source please pass on.

The fabric I used was from myfabrics.com. I chose a cotton satin stretch (97% cotton 3% spandex) which has a bit of a sheen and was slightly lighter than I anticipated. This was £12.95 per metre. There is quite a wide choice of fabric on this website but it’s not the cheapest and I find the £4.80 postage a bit steep. But since ordering I have received an e-mail for £8 off my next order if I spend £25. They also have a stretch twill which I got a sample of and it is heavier than the satin so this would be my choice if I were to make another pair – this could be the chino type fabric I was originally looking for.

Creating this pattern from the Jeans pattern has worked well and again with the shaped waistband I’m getting a really good fit with no gaping at the back. But I think I could add a little bit of width into the thighs.

front trouser open

I used a lightweight cotton gingham for the pocket bags and I bound the lower edge of the waistband with a contrast bias binding.

 

After years of not attempting to make trousers I’m really pleased with what I’m stitching up. I felt quite satisfied hanging these up in the wardrobe. The only issue is that I haven’t worn them yet, with cycling to work I’m finding that my trousers all have a horseshoe shaped faded saddle mark on the bottom, which I don’t mind too much on jeans but I wouldn’t want on these. I suppose the best thing would be to change into them when I get to work ….and I just need to be bothered to do that.

Is there anything that you have put off sewing but then found that with a bit of research and a lot of patience you got there in the end? 🙂

 

 

Adjusting The Jeans Pattern Into Smart Trousers

I’ve been wanting to make some smart trousers for a while now, I bought Simplicity 1696 Perfect fit about 18 months ago. Every so often I take the pattern out then decided it all looks too complicated and put it back.

After I finished my black jeans I re-traced the pattern and was left with the pieced together and scribbled on original pattern. Instead of throwing it away I thought I’d have a go at changing it into a pair of smart trousers.

I started with the back pieces and trimmed the seam allowance from the lower edge of the yoke and the top edge of the main back piece.

pattern back 1 (1824 x 1368)

To join the two edges together I needed to cut and open the yoke in 3 places. This gave me 3 small darts which in total measured 2.2cm.

I turned this into 2 darts. The position of the welt pocket followed the line of the top of the original pocket position.

pattern back 2(1824 x 1368)

Then on to the front. All that needed doing here was to draw on the new pocket shaping. I started by adding back in the pocket corner then drawing on a slanted pocket opening, new shape pocket corner, pocket bag and a facing for the pocket opening. Then traced the new pieces off adding seam allowances.

pattern front (1824 x 1368)

Finally I made a mock up of the back welt pocket with the darts above it to make sure it was going to work.

test welt pocket (1824 x 1368)

Test welt pocket

I didn’t make pattern pieces for the welt pocket and bag and just cut the shapes when I needed them.

It was a really easy process to alter the pattern. I’ve now made up the trousers and will do a separate post on sewing up 🙂