Slim Leg Trousers Adapted From the Jeans Pattern


Last week I posted on how I altered my Jeans pattern to make a pair of smart trousers. Sewing up without the  yoke and contrast top stitching makes for an easier construction. I still had some challenging moments though.

slim leg trousers

In this photo the leg lengths look slightly different but I promise you that they are the same length.


I had sampled the welt pocket complete with pocket bag and it worked out fine but when it came to the real thing I cocked up! For some silly reason I cut the patch of fabric used to make the welts way too small and didn’t realise this until I had sewn them on and cut the pocket opening,  on both back pieces, gah! There was nothing else to do except set to work with the task light and unpicker. Luckily I’d interfaced the opening on the main body piece which gave it stability and finally I stitched the pocket opening closed with a zig-zag  and started again.

unpicking the welts

carefully unpicking the welts…..


welt pocket fixing

stitching the opening up like Frankenstein’s forehead. I had to make the welts bigger the second time to cover all the stitching holes.


Second time I had much more success but instead of a double welt I opted for a single welt. For making the welts I follow the same method as for a bound buttonhole – when having a double welt but a single welt was just the case of folding it differently. I also checked out the tutorial on the Thread Theory website for help with the pocket bag.

slim leg trousers from back

I chose not to put a button on my welts but next time I think I will do as the opening does pull downwards slightly, this is why you definitely need a self fabric facing inside.


I spent a while looking for suitable fabrics online. I was after chino type fabric but with stretch, I couldn’t find exactly what I was after, if anyone knows a source please pass on.

The fabric I used was from I chose a cotton satin stretch (97% cotton 3% spandex) which has a bit of a sheen and was slightly lighter than I anticipated. This was £12.95 per metre. There is quite a wide choice of fabric on this website but it’s not the cheapest and I find the £4.80 postage a bit steep. But since ordering I have received an e-mail for £8 off my next order if I spend £25. They also have a stretch twill which I got a sample of and it is heavier than the satin so this would be my choice if I were to make another pair – this could be the chino type fabric I was originally looking for.

Creating this pattern from the Jeans pattern has worked well and again with the shaped waistband I’m getting a really good fit with no gaping at the back. But I think I could add a little bit of width into the thighs.

front trouser open

I used a lightweight cotton gingham for the pocket bags and I bound the lower edge of the waistband with a contrast bias binding.


After years of not attempting to make trousers I’m really pleased with what I’m stitching up. I felt quite satisfied hanging these up in the wardrobe. The only issue is that I haven’t worn them yet, with cycling to work I’m finding that my trousers all have a horseshoe shaped faded saddle mark on the bottom, which I don’t mind too much on jeans but I wouldn’t want on these. I suppose the best thing would be to change into them when I get to work ….and I just need to be bothered to do that.

Is there anything that you have put off sewing but then found that with a bit of research and a lot of patience you got there in the end? 🙂




12 thoughts on “Slim Leg Trousers Adapted From the Jeans Pattern

    • In my head these seemed a more straightforward construction than jeans but you can never be too careful – I was kicking myself for the pocket welt issue, it’s not as if I didn’t have plenty of fabric, I just didn’t think about how much was needed in those folds

  1. Nice save on the welt pockets! Your trousers look to be a really good fit. I avoided sewing trousers for a long time as any pattern I tried seemed to need too many adjustments. I now use a pattern that I took from a cheap pair of trousers that fitted me very well – I’ve made three pairs from it so far!

    • thing is with welt pockets is that if you mess up the pocket your could possibly be messing up a whole body piece too! As a last resort you could always add a patch pocket over the top… I’m so glad I made the effort with learning to sew trousers. I still can’t do the fly without following instructions.

      • Yep I’m the same with fly fronts….I made the mistake of sewing one while also helping my friend make her first dress, and managed to put the facing on the wrong side and had everything overlocked together before I realised…!

  2. Yet another pair of excellent pants! I want to be able to do this so bad. And it’s a bad feeling when a welt goes wrong.

  3. The welt story is somewhat familiar I must admit. Overall an amazingly nice pair of trousers and I just love the styling with that super yellow T and stunning shoes. Really a nice outfit.

    • Thank you. I’ve worn these a lot over the last month, they are really comfortable, I’ll definitely be making another pair. The shoes and the top work fab in the photo but in real life the top is just a bit too ‘green’ and doesn’t quite go unfortunately.

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