When I was recently sorting though my fabrics I found I still had a piece of red and white stripe jersey left over from making a skater dress a couple of years ago. Just enough to make a tee shirt. Since I gave up the RTW Fast last September I have bought 3 long sleeve and one short sleeve Breton tees from Boden. I really like the fit of these as they are slightly relaxed and not too skinny.
So instead of reaching for my Sewaholic Renfrew pattern I thought I’d take a pattern from the short sleeve version.
I measured the original tee across the shoulders, bust, waist and hem, noting the depth of the armhole and the front and back neck scoops. To make sure I got the shape of the sleeve head and armhole correct I used wax paper and tracing wheel.
Using wax paper and tracing wheel to get the shape of the sleeve head correct.
It’s a simple tee but made with methods I hadn’t used before. The back and front necklines are finished separately. The back has a 1cm wide non stretch herringbone tape and the front is finished with a 1cm self fabric binding. Once these are done the shoulder seams are then sewn together.
the front neckline with 1cm wide self fabric binding – you can see where I am using the wonder tape to hold the fabric in position before sewing.
The body and sleeve hems are sewn with a twin needle. I hadn’t done this for a while as I find the results can be a bit hit and miss, this is why I like the Renfrew with the banded hems.
Before I started sewing this I read thought my copy of ‘The Colette Guide To Sewing Knits’ to pick up some tips. The book recommends using ‘Collins washaway wonder tape’ to stabilise areas before sewing. It is a bit like double sided sticky tape and you can sew through it without it gumming up your needle and it disappears at the first wash. I bought a roll of it on eBay.
I used it at both the front and back neck and the sleeve hems. It really helped and would recommend it.
I didn’t run this up on the overlocker like a would a normal tee. The shoulders needed sewing together really carefully to make sure the seams met perfectly at the neck edge and that the chevrons created at the shoulder seam with the stripes matched. So I used the stretch stitch on the machine and used the overlocker just for finishing the seams. I forgot how slow going and noisy the stretch stitch on a normal machine was!
Accuracy required for the shoulder seams. Arrgh! just spotted an untrimmed thread at the neck edge.
The twin needle stitching for the hems didn’t give me as much trouble as I was expecting. I used the wonder tape on the sleeve hems but decided against it on the body hem as I thought I’d give it a go without wasting a metre of tape. It worked out fine.
Even though it’s just a tee I was really pleased with the results, it fits just like the RTW one and there is something about the pitch of the sleeves I really like.
Unfortunately this did take me weeks to make. I started towards the end of May. Seriously, I would pin the shoulders one evening, then a few days later tack the seams, then sew them an on an on for 6 weeks! I was going away with work for 10 days in June and thought I’d have it done in time but I just couldn’t get my act together. Then I got back and slumped in to a Brexit gloom made worse by being overloaded in the day job and coming home and instead of sewing having to get out the work laptop. But anyway, this week I tackled it and got the tee finished.
My next project is a denim dress I’ve been wanting to make for months, I just need to get back into the swing of things.🙂